---
title: "Which blade cuts glass?"
description: "None — a tungsten carbide scoring wheel, one firm pass with oil, then snap it. And toughened glass cannot be cut at all. The ranked options, the technique that chang"
url: https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-glass/
site: "At One Place"
---

# Which blade cuts glass?

**Which blade cuts glass?: None — a tungsten carbide scoring wheel, one firm pass with oil, then snap it. And toughened glass cannot be cut at all.**

Cutting glass is really controlled fracturing. The wheel does not remove material; it creates a fissure a fraction of a millimetre deep, and the break is then propagated along that fissure by bending. This is why the score must be a single continuous pass — going over it again destroys the fissure edge and the break wanders — and why the glass should be snapped within a minute or so, before the score relaxes. Toughened, tempered and laminated glass are excluded entirely: toughened glass is under enormous internal stress and shatters into granules the instant the surface is breached, and it can only be cut before tempering, which is why a shower screen or a table top must be ordered to size.

## The options, ranked

*Ranked best-first for the stated job. The third column is why the others exist.*

| Option | Good at | Bad at |
| --- | --- | --- |
| Carbide wheel glass cutter | Cheap and reliable for straight cuts in ordinary window glass and mirror. | The wheel wears and starts skipping, which produces a bad score and a bad break. |
| Oil-fed cutter | Lubricates the score continuously, which gives a cleaner run and a much better break. | Costs more, and needs the right cutting oil. |
| Diamond wet saw | The only practical way to make a curved or notched cut in glass. | Slow, wet and needs the right machine. |
| A glazier | Cuts to size accurately, handles toughened by ordering it pre-cut, and takes the risk. | Costs money for what looks like a simple job. |

## Technique that changes the outcome

1. Work on a flat surface with a cloth or carpet underneath
2. Oil the wheel and score once, firmly and continuously, from edge to edge
3. Snap immediately: lay the score over a dowel, or grip either side and flex sharply
4. Arris the cut edge with a stone or wet-and-dry paper — a fresh glass edge cuts skin readily
5. Wear gloves and eye protection

## What goes wrong

- Re-scoring the same line
- Any attempt on toughened or laminated glass
- Cutting closer than about 15 mm to an edge, where the strip will not snap cleanly

> Compiled practical guidance rather than a published standard. Product formulations vary by brand and market, so read the label — and where the work is structural, electrical or gas, the regulations that apply where you are govern rather than anything here.

## Other blade questions

| For | Use |
| --- | --- |
| Metal | A bi-metal or carbide-tooth blade with at least three teeth in the cut — that tooth-count rule matters more than the machine. |
| Tile | A continuous-rim diamond blade with water — and cut wet, because dry cutting tile produces respirable silica dust. |
| Wood | 24 teeth for ripping and framing, 40 for general work, 60-80 for a clean crosscut finish. |
| Plywood without tearout | A sharp 60-80 tooth blade, a scoring pass, tape on the line, and the good face oriented for the tool you are using. |
| Brick | A segmented-rim diamond blade, cut wet or with on-tool extraction — brick and mortar dust is a serious silica hazard. |
| Laminate | A triple-chip or negative-hook blade for worktops, and a reverse-tooth jigsaw blade for laminate flooring cut face up. |
| Acrylic | A triple-chip negative-hook blade on a table saw, or score-and-snap for thin sheet — and keep the feed steady so it does not melt. |
| Plasterboard | A utility knife for straight cuts and a jab saw or multi-tool for cutouts — a circular saw is the wrong tool entirely. |
| Plastic pipe | A fine 24 TPI hacksaw or a proper pipe cutter — and deburr the inside afterwards, which is the step people skip. |

## Common questions

### Which blade cuts glass?

None — a tungsten carbide scoring wheel, one firm pass with oil, then snap it. And toughened glass cannot be cut at all.

### What should I avoid?

Re-scoring the same line Any attempt on toughened or laminated glass Cutting closer than about 15 mm to an edge, where the strip will not snap cleanly

## Related pages

- [Which blade cuts metal?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-metal/)
- [Which blade cuts tile?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-tile/)
- [Which circular saw blade for wood?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-wood/)
- [Which blade cuts plywood without tearout?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-plywood/)
- [Which blade cuts brick?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-brick/)
- [Which blade cuts laminate?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-laminate/)
- [Which blade cuts acrylic?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-acrylic/)
- [Which blade cuts plasterboard?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-plasterboard/)
- [Which blade cuts plastic pipe?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-plastic-pipe/)
- [Which glue works on glass?](https://atoneplace.net/which/glue-glass/)
- [Which drill bit should I use for glass?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-glass/)

## Sources

- Typical range compiled from manufacturer specifications — At One Place (/about/)