--- title: "Which blade cuts metal?" description: "A bi-metal or carbide-tooth blade with at least three teeth in the cut — that tooth-count rule matters more than the machine. The ranked options, the technique that " url: https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-metal/ site: "At One Place" --- # Which blade cuts metal? **Which blade cuts metal?: A bi-metal or carbide-tooth blade with at least three teeth in the cut — that tooth-count rule matters more than the machine.** The three-tooth rule governs everything: at least three teeth must be in contact with the material at all times, or a tooth catches the edge, is loaded sideways and breaks off. That is why thin-wall tube needs 24 or 32 TPI and solid bar wants 14 to 18, and why a coarse blade on thin sheet destroys itself immediately. Speed is the other variable — metal cutting is slow, and heat is what blunts a blade, so the correct approach is low speed with steady pressure and cutting fluid, exactly the opposite of cutting wood. Never fit a metal-cutting disc to a saw that runs faster than the disc's rated speed, and never fit a wood blade to a metal cut: the tooth geometry grabs and the blade can shatter. ## The options, ranked *Ranked best-first for the stated job. The third column is why the others exist.* | Option | Good at | Bad at | | --- | --- | --- | | Bi-metal blade (bandsaw, jigsaw, reciprocating saw) | Hardened teeth on a flexible spring-steel back, so it cuts hard material without snapping. | Strips its teeth instantly if the pitch is too coarse for thin material. | | Carbide-tooth metal cutting circular blade | Fast, cold, accurate cuts in steel section with a clean edge and no shower of sparks. | Expensive, and it must be run in a saw geared for the correct speed — not a wood saw. | | Abrasive cut-off disc | Cheap and cuts almost anything, including hardened steel. | Showers sparks, heats the workpiece and leaves a burnt edge; the disc wears down as it goes. | | Hacksaw | Controllable and quiet, and 24 or 32 TPI is right for tube and sheet. | Slow, and using an 18 TPI blade on thin tube strips teeth within a few strokes. | ## Technique that changes the outcome 1. Match the pitch to the material thickness — three teeth in the cut, minimum 2. Clamp the work; anything that moves grabs the blade 3. Cut slowly with steady pressure and use cutting fluid where possible 4. Deburr the cut edge immediately; fresh cut metal is genuinely sharp 5. Wear eye protection: metal swarf and abrasive fragments are the classic eye injury ## What goes wrong - A wood blade in metal, which grabs and can shatter - A coarse blade on thin sheet or tube - Cutting galvanised or coated metal in an enclosed space; the fumes from hot zinc cause metal fume fever > Compiled practical guidance rather than a published standard. Product formulations vary by brand and market, so read the label — and where the work is structural, electrical or gas, the regulations that apply where you are govern rather than anything here. ## Other blade questions | For | Use | | --- | --- | | Tile | A continuous-rim diamond blade with water — and cut wet, because dry cutting tile produces respirable silica dust. | | Wood | 24 teeth for ripping and framing, 40 for general work, 60-80 for a clean crosscut finish. | | Plywood without tearout | A sharp 60-80 tooth blade, a scoring pass, tape on the line, and the good face oriented for the tool you are using. | | Brick | A segmented-rim diamond blade, cut wet or with on-tool extraction — brick and mortar dust is a serious silica hazard. | | Laminate | A triple-chip or negative-hook blade for worktops, and a reverse-tooth jigsaw blade for laminate flooring cut face up. | | Acrylic | A triple-chip negative-hook blade on a table saw, or score-and-snap for thin sheet — and keep the feed steady so it does not melt. | | Glass | None — a tungsten carbide scoring wheel, one firm pass with oil, then snap it. And toughened glass cannot be cut at all. | | Plasterboard | A utility knife for straight cuts and a jab saw or multi-tool for cutouts — a circular saw is the wrong tool entirely. | | Plastic pipe | A fine 24 TPI hacksaw or a proper pipe cutter — and deburr the inside afterwards, which is the step people skip. | ## Common questions ### Which blade cuts metal? A bi-metal or carbide-tooth blade with at least three teeth in the cut — that tooth-count rule matters more than the machine. ### What should I avoid? A wood blade in metal, which grabs and can shatter A coarse blade on thin sheet or tube Cutting galvanised or coated metal in an enclosed space; the fumes from hot zinc cause metal fume fever ## Related pages - [Which blade cuts tile?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-tile/) - [Which circular saw blade for wood?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-wood/) - [Which blade cuts plywood without tearout?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-plywood/) - [Which blade cuts brick?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-brick/) - [Which blade cuts laminate?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-laminate/) - [Which blade cuts acrylic?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-acrylic/) - [Which blade cuts glass?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-glass/) - [Which blade cuts plasterboard?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-plasterboard/) - [Which blade cuts plastic pipe?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-plastic-pipe/) - [Which glue works on metal?](https://atoneplace.net/which/glue-metal/) - [Which drill bit should I use for metal?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-metal/) - [Which paint should I use on metal?](https://atoneplace.net/which/paint-metal/) ## Sources - Typical range compiled from manufacturer specifications — At One Place (/about/)