--- title: "Which drill bit will go through hardened steel?" description: "Solid carbide in a rigid setup, or soften the spot first — HSS and cobalt cannot cut anything much above 50 HRC. The ranked options, the technique that changes the o" url: https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-hardened-steel/ site: "At One Place" --- # Which drill bit will go through hardened steel? **Which drill bit will go through hardened steel?: Solid carbide in a rigid setup, or soften the spot first — HSS and cobalt cannot cut anything much above 50 HRC.** A cutting tool has to be substantially harder than the material it cuts. HSS sits around 62-65 HRC and cobalt HSS a little above, but they both lose hardness as they heat, so against a component hardened to 55-60 HRC they blunt almost instantly. Tungsten carbide stays hard to far higher temperatures and can cut it — at the cost of being brittle, so any wobble, any hand-held wander, and the tip chips. Rigidity therefore matters as much as the bit: clamp the work, use a press or a stable guide, run slowly, and use steady pressure without hammering. If the part's heat treatment does not matter, annealing the spot is far easier than fighting it. ## The options, ranked *Ranked best-first for the stated job. The third column is why the others exist.* | Option | Good at | Bad at | | --- | --- | --- | | Solid carbide bit | Hard enough to cut a hardened bolt, a file or a lock shackle where nothing else will. | Brittle to the point of snapping under any side load, so it needs a drill press and a clamped workpiece. | | Carbide-tipped masonry bit, reground | A well-known field improvisation: the carbide tip cuts, once ground to a sharper cutting angle. | Crude, slow, leaves a rough hole and needs a bench grinder and patience. | | Annealing the spot | Heating the area red and letting it cool slowly softens it so ordinary bits work again. | Destroys the heat treatment of the part, which may be exactly what the part relies on. | | Abrasive or spark erosion | A carbide burr, a die grinder or professional EDM will remove hardened material without a drill. | Slow, or requires equipment most people do not have. | ## Technique that changes the outcome 1. Clamp the work and use a drill press or a solid guide; hand drilling snaps carbide 2. Run slow — a few hundred rpm — with firm continuous pressure 3. Cool with cutting fluid to protect the bit rather than the workpiece 4. Start with a carbide spotting or centre drill so there is no chance of wandering ## What goes wrong - Hammer mode, which shatters carbide instantly - Cobalt bits marketed as suitable — they are for stainless, not for hardened steel - Annealing a spring, a fastener or a structural part whose hardness is doing a job > Compiled practical guidance rather than a published standard. Product formulations vary by brand and market, so read the label — and where the work is structural, electrical or gas, the regulations that apply where you are govern rather than anything here. ## Other drill bit questions | For | Use | | --- | --- | | Tile | A spear-point carbide or diamond bit in rotary mode only — hammer action shatters tile, every time. | | Metal | An HSS twist drill, ideally with a 135° split point, run slowly with firm pressure and cutting fluid. | | Concrete | An SDS-plus carbide bit in a rotary hammer — a normal hammer drill will get there eventually and blunt several bits doing it. | | Masonry | A carbide-tipped masonry bit in hammer mode for brick and block; step up to an SDS rotary hammer above about 10 mm. | | Porcelain tile | A diamond core bit, cooled with water, at low speed — carbide spear points do not cut porcelain. | | Stainless steel | A cobalt bit at low speed with heavy constant pressure and cutting fluid — and never let it stop cutting. | | Wood | A brad point bit for clean holes up to about 13 mm; an auger for depth and a Forstner for a flat bottom. | | Plasterboard (drywall) | Almost none — an ordinary HSS or brad point bit in rotary mode, and the real question is which fixing goes in the hole. | | Glass | A spear-point carbide or a diamond bit, run slowly under water — and toughened glass cannot be drilled at all. | | Plastic | An HSS bit ground to a shallower rake, or a plastic-specific bit, at low speed with a backing board — acrylic especially will crack. | | Aluminium | A sharp HSS bit at high speed with a wax or paraffin lubricant — the problem is aluminium sticking to the bit, not hardness. | | Large holes in wood | Spade for speed and roughness, auger for depth, Forstner for a clean flat bottom, hole saw for big diameters in thin stock. | ## Common questions ### Which drill bit will go through hardened steel? Solid carbide in a rigid setup, or soften the spot first — HSS and cobalt cannot cut anything much above 50 HRC. ### What should I avoid? Hammer mode, which shatters carbide instantly Cobalt bits marketed as suitable — they are for stainless, not for hardened steel Annealing a spring, a fastener or a structural part whose hardness is doing a job ## Related pages - [Which drill bit should I use for tile?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-tile/) - [Which drill bit should I use for metal?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-metal/) - [Which drill bit should I use for concrete?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-concrete/) - [Which drill bit should I use for masonry?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-masonry/) - [Which drill bit should I use for porcelain tile?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-porcelain-tile/) - [Which drill bit should I use for stainless steel?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-stainless-steel/) - [Which drill bit should I use for wood?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-wood/) - [Which drill bit should I use for plasterboard?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-plasterboard/) - [Which drill bit should I use for glass?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-glass/) - [Which drill bit should I use for plastic?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-plastic/) ## Sources - Typical range compiled from manufacturer specifications — At One Place (/about/)