---
title: "Which drill bit should I use for wood?"
description: "A brad point bit for clean holes up to about 13 mm; an auger for depth and a Forstner for a flat bottom. The ranked options, the technique that changes the outcome, "
url: https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-wood/
site: "At One Place"
---

# Which drill bit should I use for wood?

**Which drill bit should I use for wood?: A brad point bit for clean holes up to about 13 mm; an auger for depth and a Forstner for a flat bottom.**

Wood tears rather than cuts, and every difference between these bits comes down to whether the fibres are severed before they are lifted. A twist drill's cutting lip lifts fibres and rips them at the rim, which is why entry and exit are ragged; a brad point severs the circumference with its spurs first. Exit tearout is a separate problem with one reliable answer, which is a sacrificial backing board clamped tight behind the work so there is no unsupported fibre to blow out. Speed should fall as diameter rises — a large Forstner run fast burns the timber and the bit before it cuts.

## The options, ranked

*Ranked best-first for the stated job. The third column is why the others exist.*

| Option | Good at | Bad at |
| --- | --- | --- |
| Brad point bit | The centre spur stops it wandering and the outer spurs cut the fibres before the flutes lift them, so entry is clean. | Clogs in deep holes and is easily blunted by a hidden nail. |
| Standard HSS twist drill | Cheap, available in every size, and perfectly adequate for rough work and pilot holes. | Wanders on start and tears the fibres on entry and exit. |
| Auger bit | A screw point pulls it through, and the deep single flute clears chips from a long hole. | Self-feeding means it grabs; needs low speed and a firm grip or a brace. |
| Forstner bit | Flat-bottomed, can be started at an angle or on an edge, and cuts overlapping holes cleanly. | Generates a lot of heat, needs a drill press for accuracy, and is slow. |

## Technique that changes the outcome

1. Clamp a sacrificial board behind the work to prevent breakout
2. Mark the centre with an awl so the spur has something to sit in
3. Slow down as the bit gets bigger; large bits want a few hundred rpm, not a few thousand
4. Withdraw periodically on deep holes to clear the chips

## What goes wrong

- Drilling into old timber without checking for nails and screws
- Running a spade or auger bit at full speed, where it grabs and twists the work

> Compiled practical guidance rather than a published standard. Product formulations vary by brand and market, so read the label — and where the work is structural, electrical or gas, the regulations that apply where you are govern rather than anything here.

## Other drill bit questions

| For | Use |
| --- | --- |
| Tile | A spear-point carbide or diamond bit in rotary mode only — hammer action shatters tile, every time. |
| Metal | An HSS twist drill, ideally with a 135° split point, run slowly with firm pressure and cutting fluid. |
| Concrete | An SDS-plus carbide bit in a rotary hammer — a normal hammer drill will get there eventually and blunt several bits doing it. |
| Masonry | A carbide-tipped masonry bit in hammer mode for brick and block; step up to an SDS rotary hammer above about 10 mm. |
| Porcelain tile | A diamond core bit, cooled with water, at low speed — carbide spear points do not cut porcelain. |
| Stainless steel | A cobalt bit at low speed with heavy constant pressure and cutting fluid — and never let it stop cutting. |
| Plasterboard (drywall) | Almost none — an ordinary HSS or brad point bit in rotary mode, and the real question is which fixing goes in the hole. |
| Glass | A spear-point carbide or a diamond bit, run slowly under water — and toughened glass cannot be drilled at all. |
| Plastic | An HSS bit ground to a shallower rake, or a plastic-specific bit, at low speed with a backing board — acrylic especially will crack. |
| Hardened steel | Solid carbide in a rigid setup, or soften the spot first — HSS and cobalt cannot cut anything much above 50 HRC. |
| Aluminium | A sharp HSS bit at high speed with a wax or paraffin lubricant — the problem is aluminium sticking to the bit, not hardness. |
| Large holes in wood | Spade for speed and roughness, auger for depth, Forstner for a clean flat bottom, hole saw for big diameters in thin stock. |

## Common questions

### Which drill bit should I use for wood?

A brad point bit for clean holes up to about 13 mm; an auger for depth and a Forstner for a flat bottom.

### What should I avoid?

Drilling into old timber without checking for nails and screws Running a spade or auger bit at full speed, where it grabs and twists the work

## Related pages

- [Which drill bit should I use for tile?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-tile/)
- [Which drill bit should I use for metal?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-metal/)
- [Which drill bit should I use for concrete?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-concrete/)
- [Which drill bit should I use for masonry?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-masonry/)
- [Which drill bit should I use for porcelain tile?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-porcelain-tile/)
- [Which drill bit should I use for stainless steel?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-stainless-steel/)
- [Which drill bit should I use for plasterboard?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-plasterboard/)
- [Which drill bit should I use for glass?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-glass/)
- [Which drill bit should I use for plastic?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-plastic/)
- [Which drill bit will go through hardened steel?](https://atoneplace.net/which/drill-bit-hardened-steel/)
- [Which glue works on wood?](https://atoneplace.net/which/glue-wood/)
- [Which circular saw blade for wood?](https://atoneplace.net/which/blade-wood/)
- [Which screw and pilot hole should I use for wood?](https://atoneplace.net/which/screw-wood/)

## Sources

- Typical range compiled from manufacturer specifications — At One Place (/about/)