At One Place

Blade

10 materials and what works on each.

For Use First alternative
Metal A bi-metal or carbide-tooth blade with at least three teeth in the cut — that tooth-count rule matters more than the machine. Carbide-tooth metal cutting circular blade
Tile A continuous-rim diamond blade with water — and cut wet, because dry cutting tile produces respirable silica dust. Turbo rim
Wood 24 teeth for ripping and framing, 40 for general work, 60-80 for a clean crosscut finish. 40T combination blade
Plywood without tearout A sharp 60-80 tooth blade, a scoring pass, tape on the line, and the good face oriented for the tool you are using. Scoring cut
Brick A segmented-rim diamond blade, cut wet or with on-tool extraction — brick and mortar dust is a serious silica hazard. Turbo rim diamond blade
Laminate A triple-chip or negative-hook blade for worktops, and a reverse-tooth jigsaw blade for laminate flooring cut face up. Negative hook blade
Acrylic A triple-chip negative-hook blade on a table saw, or score-and-snap for thin sheet — and keep the feed steady so it does not melt. Scoring knife (score and snap)
Glass None — a tungsten carbide scoring wheel, one firm pass with oil, then snap it. And toughened glass cannot be cut at all. Oil-fed cutter
Plasterboard A utility knife for straight cuts and a jab saw or multi-tool for cutouts — a circular saw is the wrong tool entirely. Jab saw (pad saw)
Plastic pipe A fine 24 TPI hacksaw or a proper pipe cutter — and deburr the inside afterwards, which is the step people skip. Ratchet shear cutter