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Which glue works on wood?

Which glue works on wood?
PVA wood glue for anything indoors; a water-resistant grade (Type I / D4) or polyurethane for anything that gets wet.

On a properly fitted long-grain joint, PVA is stronger than the timber around it — the test piece breaks in the wood, not at the glue line, and that has been true since the 1950s. What fails is everything else: end grain behaves like a bundle of straws and drinks glue out of the joint, leaving it starved, and any gap wider than a shaving leaves PVA with nothing to grip. Clamping pressure exists to close the joint and squeeze the film thin, not to force glue into the wood, and over-clamping soft timber genuinely starves a joint. Water resistance is graded rather than claimed: EN 204 runs D1 to D4 and the American system Type III to Type I, and the number on the bottle is the only reliable statement about immersion.

The options, ranked

Ranked best-first for the stated job. The third column is why the others exist.
Option Good at Bad at
PVA wood glue Stronger than the wood itself on a well-fitted long-grain joint, cheap, cleans up with water, sands and takes a finish poorly but predictably. Almost no gap-filling strength, creeps slowly under sustained load, and interior grades fail when soaked.
Polyurethane glue Waterproof, bonds wood to metal, stone and plastics, and works on slightly damp timber because moisture is what cures it. Foams as it cures and that foam has no strength at all, so it fills gaps visually and not structurally. Stains skin brown for days.
Two-part epoxy The only common wood adhesive that genuinely bridges gaps, and the right answer for oily tropical timbers and end-grain-heavy joints. Expensive, slow, needs mixing by ratio, and a thick glue line is visible under a clear finish.
Hot hide glue Reversible with heat and moisture, which is why instrument and antique repair still uses it; it also sticks to itself for repairs. Needs a glue pot, sets in under a minute, and fails in damp conditions.

Technique that changes the outcome

  1. Dry-fit and clamp the joint before any glue is opened — glue never fixes a bad fit
  2. Size end grain with glue thinned slightly with water, let it soak in, then glue normally
  3. Spread a thin even film on both faces rather than a bead on one
  4. Clamp until a small continuous bead of squeeze-out appears, and no harder
  5. Wipe squeeze-out with a damp cloth before it skins, or it blocks stain later
  6. Leave clamped 30-60 minutes; leave unstressed 24 hours for full strength

What goes wrong

  • Gluing below about 10 °C — most PVAs chalk and never reach strength
  • Relying on polyurethane foam to fill a gap; it has effectively no strength
  • Assuming a joint is finished when the clamps come off — cure is a day, not an hour

Compiled practical guidance rather than a published standard. Product formulations vary by brand and market, so read the label — and where the work is structural, electrical or gas, the regulations that apply where you are govern rather than anything here.

Other glue and adhesive questions

For Use
Plastic It depends entirely on which plastic — identify it first, because solvent cement is unbeatable on some and useless on others.
Polypropylene and polyethylene Ordinary adhesives cannot wet these plastics at all. Use a polyolefin primer with cyanoacrylate, an MMA structural adhesive, or weld the plastic.
Metal Two-part epoxy for anything structural, cyanoacrylate for small dry parts, and MMA where the surface cannot be properly prepared.
Ceramic and pottery Two-part epoxy for anything that will be handled or loaded, cyanoacrylate for a clean break on a display piece — and neither is dishwasher-proof.
Shoes A flexible shoe repair adhesive — polyurethane or a neoprene contact cement — never superglue, which cracks within a day of walking.
Fabric A washable fabric adhesive or a fusible bonding web — and never superglue, which reacts with cotton violently enough to burn.
Glass UV-cure glass adhesive for an invisible joint, clear epoxy where it must hold load, and neutral-cure silicone where it must stay flexible or wet.
PVC pipe PVC solvent cement with its matching primer — and PVC, CPVC and ABS cements are not interchangeable.
Tiles A cement-based thin-set in almost every case; ready-mixed tub adhesive only on small dry walls, never on floors or in showers.
Phone screens A pre-cut adhesive gasket, or a flexible B-7000-type adhesive around the frame — superglue destroys screens and is the classic mistake.
Rubber Contact cement for large flexible areas and rubber-toughened cyanoacrylate for small ones — but silicone and EPDM need a primer or they will not bond at all.
Outdoor and waterproof joints Polyurethane or epoxy for rigid joints, MS polymer where the joint has to move — and check the water-resistance class rather than the word "waterproof".
Acrylic (Perspex, Plexiglas) A solvent cement run into the joint by capillary action — not a tube adhesive, which will always look like a repair.
Concrete Epoxy or a construction adhesive for bonding to it, and a chemical anchor resin — not glue — for anything that carries load.
Leather Contact cement for a permanent flexible bond, or a leather-craft PVA to hold pieces while you stitch them.
Silicone Effectively only more silicone, and even that needs a primer — and any silicone residue left on a surface stops everything else sticking too.
Paper A glue stick or PVA for everyday work; wheat starch paste or methylcellulose for anything you want to survive — and never tape.
Foam A foam-safe water-based adhesive or low-temperature hot melt — solvent adhesives dissolve polystyrene on contact.
Polycarbonate A urethane or silicone adhesive is safest; solvent cements work but polycarbonate is unusually prone to stress cracking days later.

Common questions

Which glue works on wood?
PVA wood glue for anything indoors; a water-resistant grade (Type I / D4) or polyurethane for anything that gets wet.
What should I avoid?
Gluing below about 10 °C — most PVAs chalk and never reach strength Relying on polyurethane foam to fill a gap; it has effectively no strength Assuming a joint is finished when the clamps come off — cure is a day, not an hour

Related pages

Sources

  1. Typical range compiled from manufacturer specifications — At One Place

How these figures are compiled and checked