Which sandpaper grit for car body filler?
Filler is easiest to shape in the short window after it has gelled but before it has fully hardened — the so-called cheese state, roughly twenty minutes in — and doing the bulk of the shaping then saves a great deal of effort. Every subsequent grit exists to remove the scratches of the previous one, and scratches that survive under primer will telegraph through the paint once the sun is on it. A guide coat makes the process visible: mist a contrasting colour over the area, and sanding removes it from the highs while leaving it in the lows. Filler must go over clean, abraded bare metal or a compatible primer, and it must never be left unprimed, because polyester filler absorbs moisture.
The options, ranked
| Option | Good at | Bad at |
|---|---|---|
| 80 grit | Shapes filler fast while it is still green, which is the easiest time to work it. | Leaves scratches deep enough to show through primer if they are not worked out. |
| 180 grit | Removes the 80-grit scratches and refines the shape before priming. | Loads quickly if the filler is not fully cured. |
| 320 grit | The right key for high-build primer to sit on. | Too fine to correct shape. |
| 400-600 grit on primer | Flattens the primer so the basecoat has an even, non-absorbent surface. | Cutting through to filler means starting the primer stage again. |
| Guide coat | A light dusting of contrasting colour that reveals every low spot as you sand — the single most useful trick in the job. | An extra step people skip and then regret at the paint stage. |
Technique that changes the outcome
- Shape while the filler is still soft, then let it cure fully before refining
- Use a long flat block on panels; a hand follows the dent instead of removing it
- Apply a guide coat before each sanding stage
- Feather the edges of the repair wide so there is no step under the paint
What goes wrong
- Leaving filler unprimed; it absorbs moisture and lifts the paint later
- Filling over paint or rust rather than clean bare metal
- Sanding filler dry without a mask — the dust is fine and irritant
Compiled practical guidance rather than a published standard. Product formulations vary by brand and market, so read the label — and where the work is structural, electrical or gas, the regulations that apply where you are govern rather than anything here.
Other sandpaper grit questions
| For | Use |
|---|---|
| Bare wood | 80 to 120 to 150 on softwood, finishing at 180 or 220 on hardwood — and stop there, because over-sanding ruins stain. |
| Stripping paint | 40 to 80 grit open-coat aluminium oxide or ceramic — but test for lead paint before sanding anything painted before the 1990s. |
| Rusty metal | 60 to 80 grit to strip scale, 120 to 180 to blend — then prime the same day, because bare steel flash rusts within hours. |
| Between coats | 220 to 320 grit with almost no pressure — you are knocking off dust nibs, not removing the coat. |
| Plasterboard filler | 120 to 150 grit to level joint compound and 220 for the final pass, ideally on a mesh with a vacuum attached. |
| Plastic | Start at 320-600 wet for scratches, work up to 2000, then finish with a plastic polish — and keep it cool. |
| Final finish | 400 to 600 dry, or 800 to 2000 wet on a fully cured film, followed by a polishing compound. |
| Wet sanding | Silicon carbide wet-or-dry paper, water with a drop of detergent, a rigid block, and 800 grit upwards. |
Common questions
- Which sandpaper grit for car body filler?
- 80 grit to shape, 180 to refine, 320 before primer and 400-600 on the primer before paint.
- What should I avoid?
- Leaving filler unprimed; it absorbs moisture and lifts the paint later Filling over paint or rust rather than clean bare metal Sanding filler dry without a mask — the dust is fine and irritant
Related pages
- Which sandpaper grit for bare wood before finishing? 80 to 120 to 150 on softwood, finishing at 180 or 220 on hardwood — and stop there, because over-sanding ruins stain.
- Which sandpaper grit removes paint? 40 to 80 grit open-coat aluminium oxide or ceramic — but test for lead paint before sanding anything painted before the 1990s.
- Which sandpaper grit removes rust? 60 to 80 grit to strip scale, 120 to 180 to blend — then prime the same day, because bare steel flash rusts within hours.
- Which sandpaper grit between coats of paint or varnish? 220 to 320 grit with almost no pressure — you are knocking off dust nibs, not removing the coat.
- Which sandpaper grit for plasterboard and filler? 120 to 150 grit to level joint compound and 220 for the final pass, ideally on a mesh with a vacuum attached.
- Which sandpaper grit for plastic? Start at 320-600 wet for scratches, work up to 2000, then finish with a plastic polish — and keep it cool.
- Which sandpaper grit for a final finish? 400 to 600 dry, or 800 to 2000 wet on a fully cured film, followed by a polishing compound.
- Which sandpaper should I use for wet sanding? Silicon carbide wet-or-dry paper, water with a drop of detergent, a rigid block, and 800 grit upwards.
Sources
- Typical range compiled from manufacturer specifications — At One Place