At One Place

Which sandpaper grit for plasterboard and filler?

Which sandpaper grit for plasterboard and filler?
120 to 150 grit to level joint compound and 220 for the final pass, ideally on a mesh with a vacuum attached.

The commonest fault in this job is not the grit but the pressure: joint compound is much softer than the board's paper facing, so bearing down on a proud joint cuts through the paper, raising a fuzz of fibres that swells when painted and shows as a rough halo around the joint. That damage cannot be sanded out — it has to be sealed and skimmed. Better to apply thinner coats and sand less. Dust is the other issue. Gypsum dust is extremely fine, travels through a house and irritates airways, and some joint compounds have contained crystalline silica, so a mask and extraction are worth using even though the material feels innocuous.

The options, ranked

Ranked best-first for the stated job. The third column is why the others exist.
Option Good at Bad at
120-150 grit Cuts dried joint compound quickly without scoring it into ridges. Will cut through the paper facing of the board if you press on a high spot.
220 grit The finishing pass that removes the previous scratches so the paint does not telegraph them. Too fine to level anything.
Abrasive mesh with dust extraction Does not clog, and the vacuum takes most of the dust before it reaches the room. Needs a vacuum and a compatible sanding head.
Damp sponge sanding Almost no airborne dust, and gentle on the paper facing. Slower and it can soften and smear the compound if it is too wet.

Technique that changes the outcome

  1. Apply thin coats and feather them wide so there is little to sand
  2. Use a light touch and a flat block or pole sander to avoid dishing the joint
  3. Check with a light held flat against the wall — raking light reveals every ridge
  4. Prime before painting: bare compound absorbs paint far faster than board paper and flashes differently

What goes wrong

  • Sanding through to the board's paper facing
  • Sanding without a mask or extraction; gypsum dust gets everywhere and irritates the airways
  • Painting straight over sanded compound without primer

Compiled practical guidance rather than a published standard. Product formulations vary by brand and market, so read the label — and where the work is structural, electrical or gas, the regulations that apply where you are govern rather than anything here.

Other sandpaper grit questions

For Use
Bare wood 80 to 120 to 150 on softwood, finishing at 180 or 220 on hardwood — and stop there, because over-sanding ruins stain.
Stripping paint 40 to 80 grit open-coat aluminium oxide or ceramic — but test for lead paint before sanding anything painted before the 1990s.
Rusty metal 60 to 80 grit to strip scale, 120 to 180 to blend — then prime the same day, because bare steel flash rusts within hours.
Between coats 220 to 320 grit with almost no pressure — you are knocking off dust nibs, not removing the coat.
Plastic Start at 320-600 wet for scratches, work up to 2000, then finish with a plastic polish — and keep it cool.
Car body filler 80 grit to shape, 180 to refine, 320 before primer and 400-600 on the primer before paint.
Final finish 400 to 600 dry, or 800 to 2000 wet on a fully cured film, followed by a polishing compound.
Wet sanding Silicon carbide wet-or-dry paper, water with a drop of detergent, a rigid block, and 800 grit upwards.

Common questions

Which sandpaper grit for plasterboard and filler?
120 to 150 grit to level joint compound and 220 for the final pass, ideally on a mesh with a vacuum attached.
What should I avoid?
Sanding through to the board's paper facing Sanding without a mask or extraction; gypsum dust gets everywhere and irritates the airways Painting straight over sanded compound without primer

Related pages

Sources

  1. Typical range compiled from manufacturer specifications — At One Place

How these figures are compiled and checked