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Glue and adhesive

20 materials and what works on each.

For Use First alternative
Plastic It depends entirely on which plastic — identify it first, because solvent cement is unbeatable on some and useless on others. Cyanoacrylate (superglue)
Polypropylene and polyethylene Ordinary adhesives cannot wet these plastics at all. Use a polyolefin primer with cyanoacrylate, an MMA structural adhesive, or weld the plastic. MMA structural adhesive for low surface energy plastics
Wood PVA wood glue for anything indoors; a water-resistant grade (Type I / D4) or polyurethane for anything that gets wet. Polyurethane glue
Metal Two-part epoxy for anything structural, cyanoacrylate for small dry parts, and MMA where the surface cannot be properly prepared. Methyl methacrylate structural adhesive
Ceramic and pottery Two-part epoxy for anything that will be handled or loaded, cyanoacrylate for a clean break on a display piece — and neither is dishwasher-proof. Cyanoacrylate
Shoes A flexible shoe repair adhesive — polyurethane or a neoprene contact cement — never superglue, which cracks within a day of walking. Neoprene contact cement
Fabric A washable fabric adhesive or a fusible bonding web — and never superglue, which reacts with cotton violently enough to burn. Flexible fabric adhesive
Glass UV-cure glass adhesive for an invisible joint, clear epoxy where it must hold load, and neutral-cure silicone where it must stay flexible or wet. Clear two-part epoxy
PVC pipe PVC solvent cement with its matching primer — and PVC, CPVC and ABS cements are not interchangeable. CPVC cement
Tiles A cement-based thin-set in almost every case; ready-mixed tub adhesive only on small dry walls, never on floors or in showers. Ready-mixed dispersion adhesive
Phone screens A pre-cut adhesive gasket, or a flexible B-7000-type adhesive around the frame — superglue destroys screens and is the classic mistake. Flexible frame adhesive (B-7000/T-7000 type)
Rubber Contact cement for large flexible areas and rubber-toughened cyanoacrylate for small ones — but silicone and EPDM need a primer or they will not bond at all. Rubber-toughened cyanoacrylate
Outdoor and waterproof joints Polyurethane or epoxy for rigid joints, MS polymer where the joint has to move — and check the water-resistance class rather than the word "waterproof". Two-part epoxy
Acrylic (Perspex, Plexiglas) A solvent cement run into the joint by capillary action — not a tube adhesive, which will always look like a repair. Thickened acrylic cement
Concrete Epoxy or a construction adhesive for bonding to it, and a chemical anchor resin — not glue — for anything that carries load. Polyurethane construction adhesive
Leather Contact cement for a permanent flexible bond, or a leather-craft PVA to hold pieces while you stitch them. Leather-craft PVA
Silicone Effectively only more silicone, and even that needs a primer — and any silicone residue left on a surface stops everything else sticking too. Silicone-specific cyanoacrylate primer
Paper A glue stick or PVA for everyday work; wheat starch paste or methylcellulose for anything you want to survive — and never tape. PVA
Foam A foam-safe water-based adhesive or low-temperature hot melt — solvent adhesives dissolve polystyrene on contact. PVA or white craft glue
Polycarbonate A urethane or silicone adhesive is safest; solvent cements work but polycarbonate is unusually prone to stress cracking days later. Neutral-cure silicone