At One Place

Screw

10 materials and what works on each.

For Use First alternative
Wood A pilot hole matching the screw's core diameter in the lower piece and a clearance hole in the upper one — that is what makes a joint tight. Part-threaded screw
Decking Stainless steel — 304 inland, 316 near the coast — or a screw specifically rated for modern treated timber, which eats ordinary zinc plating. A4 (316) stainless
Masonry A concrete screw into a precisely sized hole, or a plug and screw — and hollow block needs a different anchor entirely. Nylon plug and screw
Plasterboard Coarse-thread bugle-head drywall screws into timber studs, fine-thread into metal studs — and never use them for anything structural. Fine-thread drywall screw
MDF A straight-shank MDF screw with a parallel thread, always into a pilot hole — the edge splits without one. Standard woodscrew
Sheet metal A self-drilling (Tek) screw with a drill point matched to the material thickness, or a self-tapping screw into a correctly sized pilot hole. Self-tapping screw into a pilot hole
Chipboard A twin-thread chipboard screw with an unthreaded shank under the head, so it pulls the joint together instead of bursting the board. Screw with an unthreaded shank
Plastic A thread-forming screw designed for plastic, or a heat-set threaded insert where the joint will be undone more than once. Heat-set threaded insert
Roofing sheets A hex-head screw with a bonded EPDM washer, driven until the washer just spreads — no further. Stainless with EPDM washer
Brass hardware Cut the thread with a steel screw of the same size first, wax the brass one, and use a driver that fits the slot exactly. Wax or soap on the thread