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Which speaker cable should I use?

Which speaker cable should I use?
16 AWG for short runs and 14 AWG beyond about 15 metres or into low-impedance speakers — and make sure it is copper, not copper-clad aluminium.

Speaker cable is a resistor in series with the speaker, and the useful rule of thumb is to keep the cable's total resistance below about 5% of the speaker impedance — so an 8-ohm speaker tolerates roughly 0.4 ohms of cable, and a 4-ohm speaker only half that. That is what sets the gauge, along with the run length, and once the cable is comfortably inside that limit, nothing further is gained: the differences claimed for exotic cables at domestic lengths are not supported by measurement. Where money genuinely matters is in the basics — actual copper rather than copper-clad aluminium, a sound mechanical termination, and a cable rated for in-wall use if it is going in a wall.

The options, ranked

Ranked best-first for the stated job. The third column is why the others exist.
Option Good at Bad at
16 AWG (1.5 mm²) copper More than adequate for typical domestic runs and easy to terminate. Resistance becomes significant on long runs into 4-ohm speakers.
14 AWG (2.5 mm²) copper The safe default for long runs, in-wall installs and low-impedance loads. Stiffer, more expensive, and unnecessary for a short run.
In-wall rated cable Required by building codes for permanent installation because of its fire performance. Costs more; check the marking rather than the description.
Copper-clad aluminium (CCA) Cheap and light. Roughly 60% of copper's conductivity, corrodes at terminations, and is often sold without being obvious about it.

Technique that changes the outcome

  1. Measure the run and choose the gauge from length and speaker impedance
  2. Keep both channels the same length so nothing is imbalanced, and keep polarity consistent
  3. Terminate with banana plugs or properly crimped spades rather than bare twisted strands
  4. Use in-wall rated cable for permanent installation

What goes wrong

  • Copper-clad aluminium sold as copper
  • Bare stray strands bridging the terminals, which can short an amplifier output
  • Running speaker cable alongside mains cable for long parallel distances

Compiled practical guidance rather than a published standard. Product formulations vary by brand and market, so read the label — and where the work is structural, electrical or gas, the regulations that apply where you are govern rather than anything here.

Other cable and wire questions

For Use
Extension leads One with a conductor rated for the full load, and always fully unwound — a coiled cable reel can be derated to a fraction of its rating.
A socket circuit Typically 2.5 mm² for a UK ring final on a 32 A device, or 12 AWG on a US 20 A branch circuit — subject to the code and the installation method.
12 V DC and automotive Size it for voltage drop, not current — at 12 V a small drop is a large percentage, so the cable is far thicker than the amps suggest.
A lighting circuit Typically 1.0 or 1.5 mm² twin and earth in the UK, or 14 AWG on a 15 A circuit in the US — but the code and the installation method decide.
Outdoor and buried runs Steel wire armoured cable, or a direct-burial type, at the required depth with RCD or GFCI protection — never ordinary indoor cable.
An electric shower Commonly 6 or 10 mm² depending on the shower rating, the run length and the installation method — and it is notifiable work in most jurisdictions.

Common questions

Which speaker cable should I use?
16 AWG for short runs and 14 AWG beyond about 15 metres or into low-impedance speakers — and make sure it is copper, not copper-clad aluminium.
What should I avoid?
Copper-clad aluminium sold as copper Bare stray strands bridging the terminals, which can short an amplifier output Running speaker cable alongside mains cable for long parallel distances

Related pages

Sources

  1. Typical range compiled from manufacturer specifications — At One Place

How these figures are compiled and checked