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What is a Denim made of?

What is a Denim made of?
A cotton twill with indigo-dyed warp and undyed weft — the dye sits on the fibre surface, which is why it fades.

Everything people like about denim follows from the ring dye. Because indigo only coats the surface of the cotton fibre, abrasion at the knees, thighs and seat exposes the white core underneath, so the garment wears a record of how it has been used — no other common dye behaves this way. Raw or dry denim is unwashed and unsanforised, meaning it will shrink substantially on first wash; sanforised denim has been pre-shrunk mechanically. Denim also carries a serious environmental footprint from indigo synthesis and, historically, from stonewashing and sandblasting, the latter banned by major brands after it caused silicosis in workers.

Component by component

Every material is a choice, and the third column is the constraint that drove it.
Part Material Why that material
warp yarn cotton dyed with indigo Indigo is insoluble and will not penetrate cotton, so it builds up in layers on the outside of the yarn — a ring dye.
weft yarn undyed cotton The white weft is why the inside of a pair of jeans is pale and why worn edges go white rather than a lighter blue.
weave 3-over-1 right-hand twill Three of every four warp threads sit on the face, so the blue side is blue and the reverse is white, and the twill gives diagonal drape.
stretch content 1-3% elastane, in most modern jeans A very small proportion transforms the fit, but it also breaks down with heat, which is why stretch jeans bag out and tumble drying kills them.
hardware copper or zinc alloy rivets and a metal or plastic zip Rivets, patented by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss in 1873, reinforce the pocket corners that tore first in workwear.

Other clothing and kit objects

Common questions

What is a Denim made of?
A cotton twill with indigo-dyed warp and undyed weft — the dye sits on the fibre surface, which is why it fades.
What is the warp yarn of a Denim made of?
Cotton dyed with indigo. Indigo is insoluble and will not penetrate cotton, so it builds up in layers on the outside of the yarn — a ring dye.
What is the weft yarn of a Denim made of?
Undyed cotton. The white weft is why the inside of a pair of jeans is pale and why worn edges go white rather than a lighter blue.

Related pages

Sources

  1. Typical range compiled from manufacturer specifications — At One Place

How these figures are compiled and checked